RANDOM THOUGHTS AT THE END OF JULY

I am finding my opinion ship is drifting into familiar waters yet again. Just when I have become comfortable with the big Leviathan of the wine world - Southern Wine & Spirits - I am being told that just after the creation of a fourth division within the company, the three previous divisions of SWS here in Kentucky were Crane (mainstays are Fosters, MMD, Pasternak, part of Constellation, Ste. Michelle and Estates), Crown (Empson, Palm Bay, another part of Constellation, Pernod Ricard) and Bluegrass (Diageo and LVMH). Number four was created for Beam Estates. Now, number five represents the new consolidated Constellation Brands (what was represented by rival RNDC of Kentucky, as well as from both Crane and Crown divisions).

5 separate sales reps for one company? That is suppose to be good customer service? This is a joke right.

Apparently not.

Why should this matter to you? I like to think of myself and my wine department here at LD as a buffer, shielding customers from unnecessary bullshit and bad wine. My guy Alfonse says it best when he tells the customers, "we taste all the bad wine so you don't have to." However, in an age where time is a commodity we have less and less of each day, the suits up the distribution line think it smart to clog things up further by giving me more portfolios to wade through, and more sales reps to find time for - not what you would call sound, efficient business, but what about the three tier system is actually logical, right?

What infuriates me the most about this is that there isn't a damn thing I, or any of my competitors can do about this. We are, in laymens' terms, screwed.

I don't want to be a Republican or Democrat about this and start bitching before anything has actually changed yet, but having been in this business for some time, and while remembering when Diageo did this brilliant move maybe 10 years ago - arguably the dumbest thing ever executed in this business to date, forcing wholesalers to create a separate division within whatever house they were in, hiring morons for a sales force, and jacking up prices so only a handful of supermarkets wanted anything to do with their brands. (You smell that? It must be those f'n sour grapes again!)

I was reading Steve Heimoff's blog today, and he continues to stir the proverbial pot with another "painting wine bloggers with a bad brush stroke" post. I stated I wasn't going to blather on about it and just do what I do and not worry about the naysayers, but, man, Steve - you need to prove nothing to the wine world - why keep going on about this crap? Seriously. You are one of the few wine writers who will maintain their relevance in the future because you live in both the print medium and the virtual one. Just keep doing what you do and it will all shake out in the end.

Got an invitation to attend this year's Road Trip Washington Wines - Washington State's version of Oregon Pinot Camp, where wineries host a group of rag-tag wine industry types (retailers, wholesalers, restauranteurs and the like) to experience firsthand all the great things that Washington state wines have to offer. I haven't gotten the full itinerary yet, but having spent years earlier on, envisioning a little town of Prosser, WA as the place I'd hoped to retire (before the cost of a house their went through the roof), I can't wait to see it all. Due to depart in October, for 4 days of blog and Twitter fodder.

Most of the blogging world is returning to normal as most of my blogging brethren are returning home from the second American Wine Bloggers Conference (representation locally came from Cheap Wine Ratings' Tim Lemke and My Wine Education's Kevin Gerl). Gathering from all the various tweets from the more infamous of wine bloggers, a good time was had by all. The next WBC was announced, and unlike the previous two (which were held in California), next year's is in, you guessed it, Washington State. Yee-haw! I am there.

The next couple of days are a bit harried so I probably won't be posting until Monday. I've got a supergroup to talk about, alongside Tequila and a bit of Burgundy.

THE TRADE SHOW WIND'S A-BLOWIN'

So yesterday, Shannon, Ray (our Fort Thomas store manager) and I drove to Louisville for one of our distributor’s trade shows. Vanguard Wines represents some terrific California and Oregon producers, as well as the importers Martine’s Wines, Terry Thiese, Eagle Eye Imports, Jose Pastore, and their own Vanguard Wine Imports, among others.

Good friend Drew Neiman, a winemaker himself (Kongsgaard, Arietta, Neiman Cellars), is the owner of this distributorship, based out of Columbus, and doing business in both Kentucky and Ohio. Holding court at Louisville’s 21C Museum Hotel – which is a very cool mix of art and hospitality, Drew unleashed his cohorts and special guests such as Jim Clendenden of Au Bon Climat, Michael Dashe of Dashe Cellars, Elizabeth Pressler of Elizabeth Spencer, John Kongsgaard, Peter and Deanne Franus, Carole Meredith of Lagier Meredith, and – as I stated on Twitter yesterday – Mia Klein of Selene, my Eric Clapton.

At any trade event, you have to economize both your time and your palate. Trying to taste every last wine there is ridiculously exhausting, and halfway through, your palate is dead and you cannot taste anything except mud, or worse, doo-doo. Instead, take a look at the tasting list and put a plan together – you cannot taste everything and get something out of each one, unless you’re a superpalate monster like Robert Parker, right? There were wines I had recently tried with Jeff, my sales rep from Vanguard, so I scratched those off the list and focused on one’s I hadn’t tried, or haven’t tasted in awhile.

I started with the wines of Elizabeth Spencer, a fairly new line of wines from California. Owner Elizabeth Pressler was there to present them: Mendocino Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2007, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007, Sonoma Coast Syrah 2006 and Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. The Sauvignon Blanc, an organically grown SB, was really nice, with a slightly rounded finish. The Pinot Noir was probably my favorite – tasting more like a Premier Cru Burgundy than a California Pinot Noir, much more finesse and elegance. I liked the others, and the Syrah was nice, but at around $25 retail, it would prove an impossible sell. The market really shies away from $20+ Syrahs anymore, even from Australia. (Everyone should probably thank Yellowtail for that one - making everyone believe Syrah/Shiraz is a cheap grape).

Speaking of high-end Syrahs, one of the best California has to offer is the Lagier Meredith Syrah from Mount Veeder in Napa Valley. Carole Meredith explained the rationale for growing Syrah in an otherwise Cabernet Sauvignon dominated area. The west side slope of Mount Veeder leaves it open to more coastal breezes, making the land more conducive to growing Syrah, which appreciates the cooler climates those breezes bring. And of course, the wine is extraordinary. Medium-to-full-bodied, with loads of red fruit flavors and aromas, this is a gorgeous example of California Syrah, something akin to a Northern Rhone. However, the price tag – it would run around $49 retail – would leave this bottle on the shelf catching dust for sometime before having to be closed out months later.

There were some exceptional Italian wines from Vanguard’s own import catalog: La Palazzetta Brunello di Montalcino 2004 and Rosso di Montalcino 2006 – both longstanding faves of mine for years – were incredible. The new acquisitions of the Tuscan wines of La Massa – just awesome! The Passopisciaro 2006, a remarkable 100% Nerello Mascalese from Sicily showed every bit an exceptional Premier Cru Burgundy. I was really impressed with these wines and others, including the Barolos of Mauro Veglio and Gianfranco Alessandro, and the Umbrian stars from Antano.

Good friend Patrick Allen of the small French importer, United Estates, was back on the streets after he and his wife Connie had welcomed their first child into the world several months back. He was revisiting the attendees with the Chateau Virgile wines from the Costieres de Nimes, as well as the always-stunning Terres Falmet Cinsault, the Tabatau St. Chinian Cuvee Camprigou and Joel Falmet Brut Champagne. I love the Cinsault, a remarkable value in this 100% Cinsault, soft, fruity, and very approachable.

Trying the Oregon wines form Soter and Domaine Serene, I was blown away by both producers’ level of quality, with the Soter Brut Rose (due out in September) and the Domaine Serene Winery Hill Pinot Noir 2006 the true highlights of their tables.

Then of course, one of my big heroes in this business, Mia Klein, of Selene Wines. Mia is one of those rare people in this business that exudes that rock star personae without acting like it. She is a quiet, radiant soul that radiates the passion for this industry you know she possesses, and you can taste it in her wines. The Sauvignon Blanc 2008 is a consistent winner in a long succession of great Sauvignon Blancs from Napa Valley. The Frediani Vineyard Merlot 2006 is arguably the best Napa Merlot you are going to buy, and even with a $40 price tag, it’s well worth it (this wine outshines Pride, which is at least twice the price of Selene). The Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 is an amazingly well-built, full-bodied red, on par with Caymus Special Selection, Joseph Phelps Backus, and Robert Mondavi To-Kalon – and a LOT less pricey. The true star was the Chesler Red, a predominantly Cabernet Franc driven wine that really blew me away. Clocking in at around $50, it wipes the floor with wines like Opus One. The former winemaker of Araujo, Viader, and Dalla Valle shows us that exceptional wines do not have to run three figures on the shelf. She also shows us that loving what you do can easily translate from vision to finished product.

My cohorts were able to taste wines I couldn't get to for one reason or another, yet all-in-all, it was a fine show. Thanks to everyone at Vanguard and all the winemakers and sales reps who participated in showing their wares, and to everyone at 21C for being such gracious hosts. It was a great time.

BOUTARI MOSCHOFILERO 2007

The Grade: OUTSTANDING. The Mojo: The Boutari Moschofilero 2007 (say it like MO-SKO-FEEL-ER-O) from the Mantinia region of the Peloponnese of Greece is, what my friend at Terlato Wines International (the importer of this beauty) calls "their Greek Pinot Grigio." Certainly reminiscent of one, this 100% varietal from Greece is crisp, clean and of lightly balanced acidity. Aged just 3 months in stainless steel tanks, the canteloupe, Meyer lemon, and ripe grapefruit aromas and flavors are complimented with hints of orange blossom, star anise, and starfruit. Ideal for light salads, shellfish and seafood dishes, chill this one and make it a part of your next patio gathering. Pretend it is a flavorful Pinot Grigio, then revel in the knowledge that you've most likely given your friends their first taste of Greek wine.

WINE & MUSIC: DAMIEN RICE AND LA GRAMIERE

So my better-late-than-never installment of Wine and Music for Twitter’s “#musicmonday” is a look at one of my wife’s favorite artists, Damien Rice. I was only vaguely familiar with the dark and dirgy folk singer when my wife started buying every CD the poor bloke has out. One of the songs that stuck in my head, even to this day, is “Volcano.” The Irish folk singer is a troubadour in the truest since, with stark, open soundscapes and brooding, poignant lyrics that reveal human nature in all its fallacies. Peeling back the onion of human idiosyncrasies, the music lays the soul bare, exposing all those dark secrets you never really wanted anyone to know, giving you the freedom to be who you truly are.

I took my wife to see Damien Rice in Louisville a year or so ago, at a great little theatre downtown (the name is now escaping me), and I was simply blown away, not only by the ration of women to men in the audience (I think I may have seen 20 or 30 other guys there), but the level of intimacy Damien Rice and his bandmates could achieve in that fairly large venue. It was a beautiful show, and I am forever impressed by the man and his music.

Check out “Volcano” here:





As for a wine that similarly inspires me, the La Gramiere Rouge 2006, which I have mentioned previously, was sired by the wife-husband winemaking team of Amy Lillard and Matt King, two American ex-pats that are single-handedly running a vineyard and winery in Southern Rhone.


Their love child, this delicious blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 5% Mourvedre is a rich, medium-bodied seductress in a bottle. Supple, intimate, and ethereally sexy, this red wine has become a big favorite of mine, and reminds me of my wife and I connecting to the music of Damien Rice, and each other.

Try them together, Damien Rice and La Gramiere, with the one you love, either with an intimate dinner, or just a low-lit night on the deck/beach/mountaintop/wherever.

A CONTROVERSY AKIN TO SHAKESPEARE MEETS CHOP-SOCKY

It has been going on back and forth for some time now, the seemingly clear cut battle between traditional wine writers (Robert Parker, James Laube, et al) and the rising tide of wine bloggers out there (with such blogs as Vinography, Dr. Vino, The Pour, Fermentation, 1 Wine Dude, Good Grape and Sonadora). Now not everyone is participating. Most of the wine bloggers, myself included, have pretty much been writing our blogs without any artillery lobbing at bystanders or critics of our ilk. The latest traditional writer to chime in is Anthony Diaz Blue from The Tasting Panel. I don’t know the guy myself, and I have only recently begun skimming their magazine – I read virtually every wine magazine out there.

In a recent article, Mr. Blue lumps all of us bloggers into one bulk statement by saying:

“And who are these bloggers anyway and, more important, what is their motivation? It would be comforting to find that they are altruistic wine lovers who see their purpose as bringing insight and valuable information to like-minded consumers. But the image that presents itself is of bitter, carping gadflies who, as they stare into their computer screens and contemplate their dreary day jobs, let their resentment and sense of personal failure take shape as vicious attacks on the established critical media.”

I recognize that there are a host of wine bloggers out there that are far superior to myself, as well as a veritable ocean of bloggers who do not have the formal training or knowledge of a wine professional, just someone who loves wine, yet to paint us all with a broad stroke of “burnt siena” and “umber” colors (you know, the colors of “poop”) is a bit over the top, harsh, and extremely uncalled for.

While my inner rebel is hoping beyond hope that the Tower of Parker comes tumbling down sooner rather than later, my experience in this business of selling wine prohibits me from doing anything more than voicing concern and caution to our customers. I have been in the business of selling wine in one capacity or another for around 20 years – restaurant and retail. I earn my certifications, study hard, and take in all the knowledge and wisdom I can from winemakers, importers, and fellow wine geeks each and every day. As a blogger, my mission is to convey that acquired knowledge and experience to both my customers locally, and my readers wherever and whoever they may be.

Do I brag about my knowledge levels? No. Do I pretend that I have a bigger audience than I actually do? No. Would I like to exert the same level of influence the likes of Parker and his ilk do on this business? Not at all. Do I wish to contribute to the conversations on wine? Absolutely.

The overall goal of anyone in this business is to facilitate the journey that the wine experience truly is. Everyone has to start somewhere, whether it is Bartles & Jaymes Wine Coolers, or Beringer White Zinfandel; there has to be a starting point. And like all voyages, once you start, you only want to keep going out, venturing into new frontiers, stopping along the way to revel in a new found favorite – be it a Napa Cabernet, an Australian Shiraz, a German Riesling – it doesn’t matter. And everyone takes a different path, meeting up along the way at different points, swapping stories, sharing experiences – that is the real beauty of wine.

Yes, I think that wine scores take away from the journey. I think that the critics distract people from the journey. But all of this petty bickering over nonsensical ownership of “who will be the bigger influence in the future” debate is just as much a distraction. The individuals like Parker have been king of the mountain for so long, they have no idea that the pathway to the future goes right past them, but we are not there just yet. Those writers like Mr. Blue are simply chiming in for the sake of controversy and selling magazines, and are not offering anything constructive to the debate. As for us bloggers, we all just need to concentrate on our intentions and goals for our respective blogs, do them the best we can, and hope for the best. In the end, this controversy is truly “Much Ado About Nothing.”

Thankfully, aside from the stinging barbs traded between the writers and bloggers, it hasn’t yet turned out to be the finale of “Titus Andronicus.” Something about the vision of Parker grinding bloggers into meat pies makes me shudder.

ANOTHER JEWEL IN THE CROWN

Ever since I came across the river in 2002, I have tried in vain, to convince a great number of importers and producers to re-examine their ventures in our state of Kentucky. Most of these wine companies tend to roll their eyes at the mere thought of coming to KY without tying themselves up in an exclusive agreement with one wine store – and not ours. Sour grapes? Perhaps, but I think ultimately, the disservice is being done to the customer, considering this particular market, which I have explained on a number of occasions, should be considered part of Cincinnati, Ohio, and not part of Kentucky. The reason is we ARE part of the metropolitan Cincinnati region, and many of our customers our from the Ohio side of the Ohio River, where a great deal of the wines in question are available EVERYWHERE; these customers do not understand why they cannot buy them in our stores like they can in Ohio. They want to buy them here because of our price advantage over Ohio. Losing that sale is not only bad for us, but bad for the winery in question.

Such used to be the case for Bookwalter Wines of Washington State.

While not a large producer, and not readily available in Ohio, you could still find them there. However, a trip across the river, and they were completely absent from the market, unless you drove to Lexington or Louisville, where one particular retail chain had them locked up in exclusivity. (I know, I am whining again.) Well, thankfully, along with a sort-of relauch of the brand, with new packaging for their wines, comes a new distribution model, at least for Kentucky. And we are proud (and relieved) to finally add these astonishingly good wines to our store.

Currently, we’ve added 4 of their wines: the 2006 Foreshadow Cabernet Sauvignon ($36), the 2006 Foreshadow Merlot ($33), the 2006 Protagonist Red ($43), and the MV Subplot #22 Red Blend (the most affordable of the bunch, at $16.99/bottle).

These wines are exemplary of what is coming out of Columbia Valley: rich, concentrated reds that overdeliver in quality. I can only hope that other Washington State producers, and indeed other purveyors of exclusive wines re-examine their approach to this market, and open themselves up to new and appreciative customers.

Tour du Vin de France Part 3 by Shannon

Allow me to back track a bit and venture South, away from Bordeaux, towards the French Riviera. My mom, sister and I spent a glorious day in Cannes, sunning ourselves, watching the beautiful people, and tubing on the Mediterranean. Which wine served as the perfect complement to these adventures? Why, rose of course!

Taking a break from the sun we ventured from our striped sunchairs around lunch time, looking for some shade and a nice, light lunch. Roaming around the streets we tried to venture as far away as possible from anything that said ‘Louis Vuitton’ or ‘Chanel’, as we knew that cafes around such destinations would be pricey. We did find a cute little place, very traditional, with the plat du jour and the offerings of the day displayed on chalk boards, instead of on a menu.

Sitting down, we noticed that most people at tables around us were enjoying rose. We decided to follow suit, and ordered a bottle of Chateau Miraval Pink Floyd 2008. A blend of Cinsault and Grenache, this was crisp and refreshing. Chateau Miraval has an interesting clientele, and this wine is named after the band, who apparently recorded part of their album The Wall at the estate. Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie even recently stayed there! So back to lunch, I ordered the plat du jour, which happened to be fresh pasta in a rabbit-stew. I don’t traditionally eat cute critters, however I went with the theme, “When in Provence…” I’m glad I did, because it was delicious, with fresh herbs that went perfectly with the rose. Truly a taste of Provence!

Back at the beach we decided to keep up our rose theme, since we had found the Miraval so pleasing and light. We ordered a simple rose from the Cotes du Ventoux, and it was equally delicious. Light, crisp and dry, with just a touch of strawberry on the finish. (It even had a nice nose which accented the smell of coconut body oil drifting around!)

We continued our love of rose throughout much of the trip, opting to have a bottle at dinner most nights. I think it’s interesting that the three of us could always agree on this, since my mom is typically a Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc drinker, and my sister just starting to enjoy wine. It proved to me that rose can really be a crowd pleaser, capable of satisfying multiple palates. The wines were always regional, and if we ordered a bottle of rose in Bordeaux, we were served a Bordeaux rose.

In Paris I bought an interesting wine, a Sancerre rose! I had never seen one before, although Kevin tells me that we do have some available here. It wasn’t very expensive, about 12 Euros, and it was extremely dark in color for a rose, I suppose from the Cabernet Franc. Although we drank this wine in our room a little warmer than I would have preferred out of plastic hotel cups, it surprised us with its body and complexity. It even stood up nicely to our Chinese take-out. (Yes, we had take-out in Paris, but just once I promise!)