POST EVENT WRAP-UP: BRUCE NEYERS TASTING

Tuesday night (last night) we invited 80 of our best customers (all of our customers are our best customers!) along with some appetizers and camaraderie, for an evening with our friend Bruce Neyers, owner of Neyers Vineyards in Napa and the national sales manager for Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. This was our second such event, the first being last year's terrific night with winemaker Adam LaZarre (formerly of Hahn Estates).

To fill you in on why these events are so special, for starters, they are of no cost to the customer to attend. Yes, that is right. It was free. For zero dollars, all you had to do was accept the invitation, RSVP, and show up. That was it. Our owner feels that a few of these events each year is a better marketing tool than any print ad campaign, so we absorb the cost, give the customers a great time, expose them to some great, interesting wines, and provide them with a speaker who will serve as catalyst to their continuing wine adventure. Ultimately, our customers will bring new customers in, and potentially become more loyal to us than our competition.

That's the business aspect of it. The nice part about putting on events like these is that our customers get to see just how passionate we are about this business by bringing our inspirations to them. Tonight, Bruce Neyers cleaved a few hours out of his whirlwind schedule to lead us through just a small microcosm of his wines and Kermit's French and Italian wines. Quite the tall order (he produces just shy of 20 wines alone, and Kermit Lynch is probably responsible for 500+ "SKUs" imported to the U.S. each year). We were legally only allowed to taste 6, which really doesn't scratch the surface. Yet Bruce, in the wisdom and joy befitting a family patriach, Bruce shared his passion for organic winemaking, Old World sensibilities, the much-misunderstood concept of "terroir" and the connections we make in this business, the ones that last the majority of our lives, you could tell as the customers were finishing up the conversation, making their purchases, and heading home or out to dinner, there was a greater understanding for what true winemakers put into their craft, and how quality still matters.

I want to thank Bruce Neyers for coming in and sharing a great evening with us, as well as Wendy Huff, Kymber Henson and the staff at Heidelberg Distributing of Northern Kentucky for giving us the opportunity to host Bruce and all of his wines (as well as finally delivering us a phenomenal French importer). Thanks to all our staff for really kicking ass, and to all our customers - our extended family - for coming in and participating in a great event.

Time to start planning the next one...

LEARNING MORE ABOUT THE LOIRE PART 3

I’ve touched on Muscadet, Anjou, Saumur and Coteaux du Layon, so this post, I’ll go over Touraine, Bourgueil, Chinon and Vouvray. It’s tough encapsulating such wonderful wines from such a diverse region like the Loire, yet any more information and I may put our fair readers into systems overload.

So the Touraine is what could constitute the central Loire with over 34,000 acres under vine. The majority of these vines will produce wines to be released under the Touraine AOC with red and white equally divided amongst the production. The region encompasses the city of Tours, and lies adjacent to the Saumur. This subregion is the largest within the Loire, with its most notable wine regions being Vouvray and Montlouis.

Red seems to be the dominant – ironically enough (because as consumers in the U.S., Vouvray would be the most notable commune we know, and that is entirely Chenin Blanc) - with the principal grape being Cabernet Franc. The appellations that best exemplify Cabernet Franc are Bourgueil, Chinon and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. The Bourgueil lies on the northern bank of the Loire River, and boasts over 3400 acres of vineyards, entirely planted with Cabernet Franc. The largest of the three, Chinon, lies across the River and boasts over 4400 acres. Higher elevation vineyards in both communes usually produce the richer, dense Cab Francs, while vineyards closer to the river banks tend to produce lighter styles.

The appellations of Vouvray and Montlouis boast wonderful Chenin Blancs, ranging from very dry to slightly-sweet, with even some extraordinary sparklers being made there. Vouvray is the most important commune within the Touraine, claiming around 4400 acres of vineyards. Montlouis, which lies to the south, on the opposite bank of the Loire, offers up terrific value alternatives to Vouvray.

Other AOCs to look for include Coteaux du Loir and Cheverny.

One of my favorite wines from the Touraine is the Domaine Pichot Couteau de la Biche Vouvray 2007. Clocking in at under $16, this glorious white possesses great notes of ripe Golden Delicious apples, golden raisins, hints of salt, smoke and mineral with a note of honeydew melon. Its slightly sweet upfront, but finishes long and dry. It’s a great example of Vouvray.

Later in the week I’ll finish up with Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé and the rest of what is often called the Centre region of the Loire. Wednesday I'll have a recap of our in-store tasting with Bruce Neyers and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants.

LEARNING ABOUT THE LOIRE PART 2

So last time, I spoke to you about the Muscadet AOC within the Loire Valley, which is often referred to as the Pays Nantais (which takes its name from the city of Nantes). Today’s post, we talk about the Anjou-Saumur. The Anjou-Saumur inhabits the area surrounding the cities of Angers and Saumur in the Maine et Loire department. There is a broad spectrum of wines produced here – red, white, rosé and sparkling wines. The red grape varieties are primarily Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec (known here as Cot). The primary white grape is Chenin Blanc (known here sometimes as Pineau de la Loire), with some Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay grown as well.

The red appellations include Anjou Rouge and Saumur Rouge, both comprised of the Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon, Anjou-Gamay (made with Gamay grapes), and Saumur-Champigny (made also with Cabs Franc and Sauvignon). The latter appellation is considered the best amongst Loire Valley’s red wines.

The white appellations include Anjou Blanc and Saumur Blanc, made up of at least 80% Chenin Blanc, and Savennières, 100% Chenin Blanc and considered one of the world’s best dry Chenin.

Rosés abound here, for there are 4 major appellations for blush, with each region boasting different styles: Rosé de Anjou, comprised mostly of the grape Grolleau and somewhat sweet; Cabernet de Saumur and Cabernet d’Anjou, both a bit sweet and made up of Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon; and Rosé de Loire, a dry style that must contain at least 30% Cabernet.

There are sweet wines of great renown as well, coming from the Coteaux du Layon, and it’s subregions Bonnezeaux and Quarts-de-Chaume. All of the wines from these AOCs are made up entirely of Chenin Blanc, and can be quite long-lived. The area of the Coteaux du Layon lies along the Layon tributary of the Loire River, and is comparable to Sauternes, in that it possesses the right climate and conditions for noble rot.

Saumur is the AOC known also for its sparkling wines. Saumur Mousseaux AOC is comprised of at least 80% Chenin Blanc, while the rosés are made entirely of Cabernet. These wines can be dry or semi-sweet. There are also some pétillant versions with have the CO₂ of the sparklers.

Within the Savenniéres, one particular producer, the much venerated N. Joly produces some of the world’s most remarkbable Chenin Blancs, and Joly himself is hailed as the preeminent leader of biodynamic farming. His most affordable wine is the Les Clos Sacré, a stunning Chenin Blanc that usually possesses a cellar potential of 5-10 years.

Next installment, we’ll touch on the wines of Touraine, Bourgueil and Vouvray.

LEARNING MORE ABOUT THE LOIRE, PART 1

One of the most fascinating wine regions, to me, is the Loire Valley in France. There is such incredible diversity in style – from dry to sweet, still to sparkling, red, white and rosé, that it is always one of my favorite regions to recommend wines from, yet so many people don’t really know or understand the wines of the Loire. The region is defined by the Loire River, the longest in France, rolls from the East across the Northern portion of the country, through what many call “the garden of France.”

Though most of us here in the States are somewhat familiar with the white wines (Sancerre, Pouilly Fume, Muscadet and Vouvray), there are red wines being produced there, such as the Cabernet Francs of the Anjou, and Pinot Noir from Sancerre. Yet to truly understand what goes on in the Loire, you have to have a sense of their geographical breakdown.

The principle areas within the Loire (from West to East) are:
1. Muscadet
2. Anjou-Saumur (comprised of the Anjou, Coteaux du Layon, and Saumur)
3. Touraine (comprised of the Touraine, Bourgueil and Vouvray)
4. Eastern Loire (comprised of the Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre)

I want to first start with the Muscadet, simply because often thought of as a grape when in fact it is moreso a region of profound significance in the world of wine. Muscadet is the most western portion of the Loire, and borders the Atlantic Ocean. Its biggest boast is that its wines are perfect pairings with seafood. This region is known for one wine, Muscadet (made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape).

The Melon grape was first introduced into the area by Dutch traders in the 17th century, cultivating it as the base for their own style of Brandy known as brandewijn. The typography and proximity to the ocean made it ideal from growing and cultivating grapes.

There are nearly 32,000 acres of vineyards, covering rolling coastal hillsides, lying to the south and northeast of the city of Nantes. Though soil composition varies, the best vineyards reside in a combination of granite, gneiss and schist. One significant subregion is the Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine, which lies between the two tributaries, the Sèvre and Maine Rivers. Most of the best Muscadet wines originate from this region.

One significant point you will see on the labels of most Muscadet wine is sur lie, which denotes the fact that the wines remain in contact with the yeast lees for several months before bottling. Though most Muscadet sees stainless steel fermentation, the contact with the lees leaves some to misinterpret the flavors as being derived from newer oak. These wines have surprising depth of character and some can improve in the cellar for several years.

I have carried a couple of different Muscadet wines over the years, the Domaine Guindon, Chateau de la Ragotiêre, and most recently the Sauvion Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine 2007. A wonderfully vibrant, minerally, crisp white wine, Muscadet in general has a slightly nutty, salty characteristic that one would connect instantly with the sea. Perfect for salads and seafood, Muscadet is a wine you should really explore.

GREEN WINE

No, I am not talking about something eco-friendly. What I am talking about is Vinho Verde, "green wine" from Portugal. The wine is called Vinho Verde simply because it is a young wine, made to be drank right away. There is no connection between its name and the rich Portuguese countryside from which it is derived, a nod to unripened grapes or the wine's color. The fact is, and this is much to even my surprise, most of Vinho Verde produced these days is red wine. (I did not know this.) My mind usually gravitates toward Vinho Verde at first sign of warmer weather.

Typically, Vinho Verde (red and white) is highly acidic and possesses a slightly fizzy character. The Vinho Verde appellation spans from Portugal's Spanish border to just South of the Douro River. The Vinho Verde is Portugal's largest DOC.

Some of the grapes used to make Vinho Verde are:

For Red V.V.: Azal, Vinhao, Espaderio, Sousao, Borracal, and Pedral

For White V.V.: Alvarinho (Albarino), Loureiro, Trajadura, Perderna, and Avesso

Grape vines in the Vinho Verde are trained high in a pergola style, meaning that the vines are trained to grow up columns places in the vineyard, up and across some sort of trellising over head, giving the grape clusters maximum exposure to the sun. This canopy pattern prevents the buildup of moisture on the foilage, which could lead to mildew, rot or other vineyard maladies.

There are 9 subregions within the Vinho Verde, and they are divided according to microclimate and grape variety. They are: Amarante, Ave, Baiao, Basto, Cavado, Lima, Moncao, Paiva and Sousa. Unless made with straight Alvarinho, no V.V. can be higher than 11.5% alcohol. If a wine is higher in alcohol, it must be classified as Vino Regional Rios do Minho.

One of the most impressive Vinho Verde whites I have stumbled across is the Aveleda Fonte Vinho Verde, a light, lively white wine that speaks of warm summer days spent on the patio, hanging out with neighbors or daydreaming with the better half. With its yellow-green color, light hints of citrus and kiwi, and crisp, resfreshing stone fruit flavors, it's a great way to welcome the greenery back from a long absence.

WHEN YOU WEAR YOUR HEART ON YOUR SLEEVE, YOU MAKE A BIG MESS

So comments on my post yesterday got me thinking: I have spent an awful lot of time dwelling on the recent tax increase here in Kentucky. Part of my problem is that when I take a job (regardless of the company employing me) I throw myself completely into the gig. It comes from being raised to work hard and commit myself to the task (commit being the operative word, I guess). I've always allowed myself to become completely immersed in the job, and sometimes, more often than not, I dissolve any restraint when dealing with any part of the business.

With this job, I have become an absolute geek about wine - trying to learn about producers, importers, brokers and such like I used to study bands and their members, songs, albums, tours, etc. I get a bit obsessed. True too, that the political aspects of this job tend to push me to extremes.

The proximity to other states (they don't call this area the Tri-State for nothing) creates unique problems to our business model, in that we have customers from all three states, and they bring with them expectations created for them by their respective home states (those being Ohio, Indiana and our state of Kentucky). It's more than frustrating for us as buyers to have to constantly explain to our customers why our pricing is different than Ohio's, or why we cannot get certain wines here that are available just across the river in Cincinnati. It is being a "bridge" store" that makes being here exciting yet inordinately challenging.

A lot of folks who enter into this blog may or may not completely understand where we are coming from when we happen to drone on about, in this case, the KY alcohol tax hike. But if there is one thing I am trying to hammer home to our readers and customers, is that most people here in Kentucky and the surrounding area have ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA that there is an 11% tax already built into the prices they pay for wine, beer and spirits. NOW, they must pay an ADDITIONAL 6% so that they are actually paying 17% taxes.

Is this overkill, when I continue on about this point? Or is it necessary to remind folks that their elected officials should be held accountable for this come the next election?

I get irate about a lot of things in this business, primarily because there are a lot of really bad decisions being made in all facets of this industry (as is in every industry). And while I hope that this blog is informative and helps our readers want to learn more about wine in general, I tend to also have a bit of a consumer activist approach, trying to let people in on the mixed up and often ridiculous dealings we contend with at the retail level.

Is this the New Yorker? Forbes? Harper's? Not hardly. I am just a neurotic wine geek with a habit for melodrama, and a drive to get people as energized by the grape as I am. I also am not interested in bullshit, and I will tell you what is going on, and how it is going on, whether you like the news or not. It's how I am with my customers, and it's how I am with my sales reps. I can be agreeable, and can be very diplomatic when presented things rationally. But tell me something ludicrous, and I cannot help but protest in my own, sometimes crude way.

I appreciate the comments made, and am really thankful for them. Sometimes I can be a real bore when I am teetering on my soapbox. Sometimes I need someone just to knock me off, pour me a glass of Chateau Shutthehelluup, and get me to move on.

HAPPY ANNIVERSARY BABY, GOT YOU ON MY MIND

April Fool's Day. Strange that this is the day that Under The Grape Tree turns 1. Honestly we should consider ourselves a miracle, largely due to my enormous powers of procrastination and the externally tugging gods of distraction. It's so easy for me to become disenfranchised with a project that I often find myself rebelling against the very concept I was championing just a few weeks ago.

But alas, it's been one year ago to the day that we started out under the tree and we are still going strong. I want to thank everyone who has tuned in to read what often times crazy things we (more often than most I) have to say. It's easy to become so impassioned by this business that one can become consumed, and often become the very thing one rails against. Sad but true. Hopefully, my fellow bloggers will rise up to smite me if I become too arrogant or cocksure of myself.

Today, while something to be proud of, is also a reminder the Life plays some pretty cruel jokes on its people. Take our fair state of Kentucky (I use the term "fair" quite loosely). Today marks the first day of a new sales tax on all beer, wine and spirits, instituted by the fiscally-incompetent folks in our state capitol of Frankfurt (Gov. Beshear, you sad bastards in the State House and Senate). The goal of this tax is to compensate for the shortfall that, oddly enough, was created by the inept spending practices of both the Republican and Democratic legislators who we have so gullibly elected over the last, perhaps two to three decades. After failing to generate decent revenue with a 9% wholesale tax, then only within the past 5 years, raising that to 11%, and now concluding that we should be taxing alcohol a total of 17% - one of the highest in the country I might add.

Brilliant.

And all for Education and Medicaid right? Except for the dollars going to help expand the Kentucky Speedway so they can attract a NASCAR event, don't forget that.

Oh, and did I mention that only 30 out of 120 counties are paying for this extra tax revenue, because the other 90 counties are still living in the 1920's - they are all DRY counties - no booze (not counting the gov't sponsored bootlegging of course. Oh that's just a rumor, WINK WINK.)

Anyway, I am not going to let the KY legislature take a runny dump on the festivities so, our goals for this coming year are as follows:

1. We will bring you at least a dozen reviews each month.

2. We'll be giving you insight into all things beer with our beer fanatics Brandon, Ray and Matt.

3. More from our new, sole assistant wine buyer, Shannon, on her road into the business of wine.

4. More smarmy, soapbox-y commentary from yours truly.

5. And the addition (in the near-future) of some video commentary and special guests at our stores.

We are looking forward to the coming year of constant changes in this business because, it's the best business to be in - the wine business that is. Where else can you be a wino and get paid for it?